Crossing into Galicia, the train reaches Ribadeo, a visit on the journey in both directions. The town looks across its wide estuary to Asturias, and its streets are lined with the mansions of indianos — emigrants who made their fortunes in the Americas — led by the turreted Torre de los Moreno.

The Playa de las Catedrales

About ten kilometres west of town lies the celebrated Playa de las Catedrales (Beach of the Cathedrals). At low tide the sea retreats to reveal a gallery of natural arches and buttresses up to thirty metres high — corridors of rock you can walk beneath, named for their resemblance to a Gothic cathedral. On the Ribadeo day the journey takes guests to the beach — usually part of the programme, though it may be changed or cancelled because of scheduling, tides or weather, since the arches can only be walked at low tide. It is one of the most photographed natural sites in Spain, and one of the quiet highlights of the route.

Into Galicia

Travelling west, the train continues from Ribadeo to Viveiro for the last night; the next morning it reaches Ferrol, where the rail journey ends, and a coach completes the trip to Santiago de Compostela. Travelling east, Ribadeo and the beach are visited on day two, on the way to Oviedo.